The Secrets of Ancient Hair Accessories: The Differences and Evolution of Hairpins, Hairpins, and Buyao
Introduction
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"Single Strand is a Zan, Double Strand is a Chai, and Three Steps Shake is Buyao" – Do You Really Know the Secrets of Ancient Hair Accessories?
From ancient times to the present, hairpins, hairpins, and buyao are not only decorations on women's heads but also symbols of status and culture. Do you know the differences and evolution between them? From the "Coming of Age" ceremony in the Zhou Dynasty to the "Golden Buyao" in the Tang Dynasty, what historical stories are hidden behind these hair accessories? Let’s uncover the secrets of ancient women’s hairstyles together!
1. Hairpin (Chai)
The hairpin (Chai) is a type of jewelry formed by the intersection of two hairpins. It is used to tie up hair or secure hats to the hair. According to the "Zhonghua Gujin Zhu·Chaizi" from the Five Dynasties period: "The hairpin is a remnant of the ancient hairpin. During the reign of Duke Mu of Qin, it was made of ivory; during the reign of King Jing, it was made of tortoiseshell; and during the reign of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, it was made of gold and silver with a phoenix head and tortoiseshell feet, known as the Phoenix Hairpin."
The popularity of hairpins began around the late Western Han Dynasty, and since then, they have been one of the main hair accessories for Chinese women.
There is a difference between hairpins (Chai) and hairpins (Zan), as mentioned at the beginning of the article: "Single strand is a Zan, double strand is a Chai."
2. Buyao
The concept of Buyao appeared during the Han Dynasty. However, from the beginning, it was placed within the scope of formal attire. According to Han regulations, the headwear for the Empress Dowager and the Grand Empress Dowager in ceremonial attire included "cutting hair, wearing earrings, and hanging pearls. The hairpin was made of tortoiseshell, one foot long, with a phoenix on top and feathers made of jadeite. Below were white pearls and golden clips hanging on both sides, horizontally inserted to secure the hair."
Buyao is a traditional Han ethnic jewelry. Its form and material were symbols of rank and status. After the Han Dynasty, Buyao gradually became accessible to the common people and spread widely in society.
As mentioned in the traditional Chinese poem "Song of Everlasting Sorrow": "Cloud-like hair, flower-like face, golden Buyao; under the hibiscus canopy, warm spring nights pass." By the Tang Dynasty, Buyao had moved away from being attached to hats and became a direct hair accessory in daily life.
Buyao usually has wing-like plates or hanging tassels. When ancient Chinese women walked gently, the golden tassels swayed, exuding an elegant and dignified demeanor. Among noblewomen, there was also a trend of wearing "Buyao crowns," which were even more luxurious and opulent than Buyao.
3. Hairpin (Zan)
From the Zhou Dynasty, Chinese girls were considered "of age" at fifteen and could marry. If they did not marry, they would still hold a hairpin ceremony at the age of twenty, where a woman would help them style their hair and insert a Zan. The Zan is what later became known as the hairpin.
Originally, hairpins did not have tassels or decorations; they were simply a thin wooden stick with a pointed end. More refined versions might have carvings or patterns on the thicker end. Later, for aesthetic purposes, people began to inlay gems and beads to enhance their decorative appeal. Over time, they gradually blurred the lines with Buyao in appearance, becoming what is now broadly understood as hairpins.
Therefore, the original purposes of Zan and Buyao were different: Buyao emphasized decoration, while Zan focused on practicality. Buyao appeared as part of noble ceremonial attire, while Zan emerged as a common hair accessory for the masses.
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